As you can see from the picture below, Swedes take their breakfast VERY seriously. At 8.30am Ulrika and Christer presented two trays full of food at the cabin door. After porridge, a boiled egg, and fruit we could take no more however and admitted defeat. They certainly know how to treat their guests here at the Cheerful Pea.

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Breakfast at The Cheerful Pea

After gently picking up and putting one of the five resident farm cats outside – he wouldn’t leave of his own accord, we packed our waterproofs and headed off for Hölick, a little village on the Hornslandet Peninsula. Dervla initially estimated that it would take 1.5 hours to get there, and kept telling us to turn off onto forest tracks rather than stay on the road, but by ignoring her we arrived within 50 minutes.

We parked up, made use of the slightly smelly pit toilet, before following the yellow nature reserve trail to the Hornslandsudden promontory, and back via the green trail which runs just above the magnificent and yet totally empty beaches. Despite the drizzle, we thoroughly enjoyed the walk and could appreciate the beauty of this place even in the rain. The landscape is unusual – boulder field covered with lichen and woodland, and feels almost other worldly. The coastline is dotted with wonderfully scenic beaches – perfect for wild swimming, as well as spotlessly clean barbecue areas. No rubbish, human waste, or graffiti in sight, unlike designated picnic spots in the UK.

Back in the village we stopped for lunch at Cafe Sjoboa. We couldn’t face another fish buffet so soon after yesterday’s magnificent feast at Trollharens Fisk, so instead both chose fried place served with boiled potatoes, tartar sauce and salad. They certainly know how to make the most of fish on the Bothnian coast.

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After a quick amble around the harbour, we headed back to the cabin to dry off and drink tea, before packing up ready for another onward trip tomorrow.

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