After a leisurely breakfast, Rich drove Aurora and I up the 946 road from Bakkagerði, to the start of trail number 14 on the wonderfully named ‘Trails of the Deserted Inlets’ map. A few kilometres in we lost all signs of the footpath and marker posts to the snow, so retraced our steps and walked in the opposite direction up track 33. Fortunately a skidoo had used the trail recently, and we followed its tramlines until it started to snow heavily, and we thought it time to return to the village. I’m sure that every villager by now knew who we were and where we were, but we still didn’t fancy getting stuck out there in worsening weather.

Back in the apartment, by 4.30pm we couldn’t see the other side of the bay what with the storm clouds, so did what all Icelanders do when it’s snowing heavily, and jumped in the outdoor hot pot – idyllic at a balmy 38 degrees C. At least it was until the blooming thing decided to stop working. Still we bobbed around until the water started to get cool, told Katljana – the supervisor, that the hot tub was on the blink just in case they needed to empty it before it froze, and ran the 5 metres from the spa to our front door, wearing our swim suits and snow boots!