Rich got VERY excited on waking to the news that the snowstorm had closed the fell road out of Bakkagerði! As devotees of the recent Icelandic drama series, this felt like the real deal, so much so that Rich insisted on going online and finding the theme music by the wonderful Kaleo, and playing it on repeat. Fortunately we’re both big fans of the song and band.

As we could only drive west, we decided to stay low, and walk the track from Brot to Brúnavik. Unfortunately the fresh snow fall had obliterated the track just a few hundred metres in, so after admiring the view we drove back to the village to explore what’s known locally as the Elf Mountain – Alfaborg, although we’d taken to calling it the Fairy Hill. Apparently this is home not only to many of Iceland’s Hidden People, and Rich assures me that they’re best friends with the puffins, but to the Queen of the Elves herself, so it’s a very special place. There are murmurs that it even provided the inspiration for Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings.

Rich was adamant that the puffins would have come in to Hafnarhólmi to shelter from the storm, and indeed we saw only one puffin pop its head above the burrow even when we went back later in the evening – they’d obviously decided to make it a duvet day rather than go fishing.

Back to the apartment for a warming lunch, and whilst Rich napped I walked along the coastal road towards Merki, where I found an extremely hardy and affectionate cat. I then visited the mini-market, open Monday through Friday from 2-6pm, and found it surprisingly well stocked, but given that the village gets cut off, I suppose it has to be.

At 5.30pm Kristjana very kindly opened up the spa for us and left us in the hot tub, before the heat got too much for us. We’re both lovers of cold rather than hot places, solely because our bodies, thanks to various quirks, can’t cope with high temperatures, but there are so many cold places to explore, that we can’t complain.