The Aurora Forecast had predicted a high likelihood of seeing the Northern Lights in the Bakkagerði area last night, so we kept the blinds open just in case. Unfortunately, no lights appeared. We’d seen a small aurora in Iceland during a visit one Winter a few years back, but nothing since. We’ll persevere though.

We left Borgarfjörður eystri straight after breakfast, and after a long day in the car – sometimes with quite difficult road conditions, we arrived at Glacier World – a B&B that literally lies at the foot of Hoffellsjökull – Hoffells Glacier. The guesthouse consists of several buildings, and we’d opted for a room in the old house, with a shared bathroom. The facilities are basic but the rooms are cosy, we can turn the radiator on and off (we both dislike hot rooms), and there are windows that open (we also dislike air conditioning). The main selling point however, is a direct view of the glacier.

After settling in, we very lazily drove the few hundred metres down the gravel track to the 5 hot pots maintained by the B&B. Two were already occupied, but we eventually found one that was just the right temperature. There are basic changing rooms and a shower, but this proved useless as the water sprayed horizontally rather than vertically in the strong wind. The hot pots are well worth stopping at though as they’re just off the ring road, and the setting is surreal.

Back to our room to get changed and drive in to Hofn for dinner, as the B&B restaurant is only open during high season. There is a microwave and kettle in the guesthouse communal area, but by now, it being towards the end of our trip, we were too tired to try and assemble a meal from leftovers. Hofn is very close though, and like we were, you might be fortunate enough to see some reindeer along the way.

Kaffi Hornið came highly recommended, and sure enough was almost full when we arrived. Whilst the guidebook describes it as unpretentious, and indeed it is, it still very much charges Reykjavik prices though, so we shied away from ordering langoustines and both ate lamb. It was admittedly delicious, but it’s ironic that fresh fish can be so hard to come by, and expensive when you do find it, in Iceland. At least that seems to be the case if you’re a tourist. I suspect the locals just catch what they want themselves, or know a fisherman.

Wanting to make the most of the time we had left in Iceland, before returning to the B&B, we followed the 4km track to the snout of the glacier, to enjoy the sunset. Sure enough we had it to ourselves, but couldn’t stay long as the wind was blowing a gale, and kept knocking Rich off balance, so we returned to our room to admire the view from inside.

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