Breakfast was another communal event at Hrifunes Guesthouse. They’d even bought gluten free products especially for me, which meant that I didn’t have to eat the usual ham and cheese, not that I don’t like ham and cheese for breakfast, but a bit of variety doesn’t go amiss.

By 9.30am we’d packed up Aurora and were on the road, heading back to Keflavik. We stopped at the Bonus supermarket in Selfoss to buy Skyr for us, and chocolate for work colleagues, and then drove along the south coast of the Reykjanes Peninsula to the geothermal area of Krýsuvík. Going via Reykjavik is more direct of course, but then you have to contend with Reykjavik’s traffic, and miss some of the sights. We’d definitely take this much quieter route in future, both to and from the airport.

At Krýsuvík we visited the explosion crater, filled with teal coloured water because of minerals and heat loving algae living within, and after a picnic in the car we then drove the few hundred metres to Seltún. This is what’s described as a high temperature area in geological terms, meaning that it’s geothermal. There are of course lots of geothermal things to see and do in Iceland, it being sited on the Mid Atlantic Ridge n’all, but Seltún is close to the capital, and easily accessible. We followed the board walk around the steam vents, mud pools and geothermal springs, savouring the smell of sulphur, before making our way back to the Hasso office – it was time to say goodbye to Aurora.

Fortunately the handover was hassle free, and Aurora finally got a good wash – cars get very dirty in Iceland because of all the gravel and dirt tracks. We even got a lift back to our final B&B – the wonderfully quirky Guesthouse 1×6, run by a Swiss-Japanese couple who fell in love with Iceland a few years ago. The house was formerly owned by an artist, and each room is fitted out with weird and wonderful beds, carvings and paintings. To top it all off, there’s even a huge japanese style hotpot in the garden! Andreas and Yukiyo provide bathrobes, slippers and shower gel, adding to that special spa feel. We only stayed in for half an hour as we were starting to feel dizzy with hunger, so after quickly getting dressed we headed over to Kaffi Duus, as recommended by our hosts.

We’d not booked a table but fortunately arrived just before the evening rush – if you want to eat after 7pm I’d suggest you reserve a table in advance, especially if visiting in the Summer as it’s definitely seen as the place to eat in Keflavik, and the prices are good. You even get a 10% discount as Guesthouse 1×6 guests! We made up for the silly high prices of langoustine in Hofn by ordering a platter each, so then had to work of all that fishy goodness with a post-dinner stroll along the sea wall. It feels very much like Reykjavik in this part of town, and defintely provides a good alternative to staying in the city – there are plenty of buses, and accommodation is much cheaper. There are also tourist sights such as ‘Giganta’s Cave’ – the home of one of Iceland’s Hidden People. Fortunately Giganta likes children and visitors, although she does snore very loudly, even louder than Rich, which is saying something.

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